Which Ancient Cosmetics Are Still Used Today?

Several ancient cosmetics remain popular in modern beauty routines, with kohl, henna, castor oil, red ochre, and frankincense among the most enduring. These products have survived for thousands of years because they combine practical benefits with cultural significance and natural effectiveness.

Kohl: The 5,000-Year-Old Eyeliner

Kohl stands as one of humanity’s oldest cosmetics, with archaeological evidence dating its use to at least 5000 BC. This dark eye cosmetic originated in Ancient Egypt, where both men and women applied it around their eyes to create the distinctive almond-shaped look still recognizable today.

The original Egyptian formulation combined galena (lead sulfide) with other minerals like malachite, ash, and burnt almonds. Ancient Egyptians ground these ingredients into fine powder using stone palettes, then mixed them with animal fats or oils to create a paste. Application involved small sticks or reeds—early versions of today’s eyeliner pencils.

Beyond aesthetics, kohl served multiple practical purposes. The dark pigment absorbed ultraviolet radiation, functioning as natural sunscreen against the harsh desert sun. Research published in Scientific Reports reveals that ancient Egyptians intentionally synthesized lead compounds like laurionite and phosgenite, which possessed antibacterial properties that protected eyes from infections common in the Nile region, including trachoma and conjunctival disease.

Today, kohl remains widely used across North Africa, the Middle East, and South Asia. Modern formulations typically replace toxic lead with safer minerals like antimony or iron oxide. In India, kajal—a kohl variant—is considered both a cosmetic and traditional remedy. Women in Somalia, Djibouti, Ethiopia, and Eritrea continue applying kohl for cosmetic purposes and eye protection. The Tuareg, Fulani, Hausa, and Yoruba peoples of West Africa incorporate kohl into wedding ceremonies and festivals.

Contemporary beauty brands offer kohl-inspired pencils and gels, maintaining the dramatic eye look that ancient Egyptians pioneered. The smoky eye trend dominating modern makeup owes its origins directly to this ancient practice.

Henna: Natural Dye from Ancient Times

Henna derives from Lawsonia inermis, a shrub whose dried and crushed leaves produce a reddish-orange powder. Evidence suggests its use dates back to the Bronze Age, around 3000 BC, across multiple ancient civilizations.

Ancient Egyptians employed henna extensively. Archaeological discoveries reveal traces of henna on the fingernails of mummified pharaohs, demonstrating its use among royalty. Both Egyptian men and women stained their lips deep red with henna. Beyond decoration, they valued henna for conditioning nails and hair while believing it brought good fortune—a spiritual association persisting in many cultures today.

The application process has remained remarkably consistent over millennia. Dried henna powder is mixed with water, lemon juice, or tea to form a paste, which is applied to skin using brushes, cones, or fingers. After several hours, the dried paste peels off, leaving a reddish-brown stain lasting several weeks.

In ancient India, henna traditions included using kajal (kohl) and mehndi (henna body art). Sindoor application by married women and intricate mehndi designs trace back to ancient customs described in the Vedas—ritual texts dating back three millennia. These patterns symbolize the Inner and Outer Sun and contain essence of the goddess Lakshmi, offering sacred protection.

Middle Eastern cultures developed elaborate henna traditions. The practice spread from the Arabian Peninsula to North Africa in the seventh century. Beyond body art, henna was applied to faces with symbolic vertical lines indicating marital status. The Prophet Mohammad’s use of henna for beard dyeing established it as sunnah (fortunate practice) in Islamic tradition.

Modern applications of henna span multiple industries. Natural hair dye products containing henna offer chemical-free color options in auburn and reddish-brown tones. Cosmetic companies market henna-based lip stains emphasizing their long-lasting effects. Brides worldwide—from India to Morocco to Western countries—continue adorning themselves with intricate henna designs before weddings. The global henna market serves both traditional ceremonial use and contemporary beauty preferences.

Castor Oil: Ancient Egypt’s Beauty Secret

Castor oil, extracted from Ricinus communis seeds, boasts a documented history stretching back to 4000 BC. Castor beans discovered in ancient Egyptian tombs demonstrate their importance in early civilization. The Ebers Papyrus, an Egyptian medical text from 1550 BC, describes castor oil’s use for protecting eyes from irritation, treating constipation, and enhancing beauty.

Ancient Egyptians pioneered castor oil’s cosmetic applications. They recognized its nourishing properties for hair growth and follicle strength. Cleopatra reportedly used castor oil to brighten the whites of her eyes, establishing it as a luxury beauty product. The oil was also used as fuel for lamps due to its slow-burning properties.

Castor oil’s traditional production method involved roasting beans, grinding them into paste, then cold-pressing to extract the oil. This technique, developed thousands of years ago, remains essentially unchanged in quality production today.

The oil’s therapeutic properties stem from its unique chemical composition. Over 90 percent of castor oil consists of ricinoleic acid, a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid found in no other oil. This compound possesses anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties. The oil also contains vitamin E and omega-6 fatty acids, making it both a non-drying oil and humectant capable of drawing moisture to hair and skin while locking it in.

Contemporary use of castor oil spans beauty and wellness industries. Hair care products incorporate it for softening, lubricating, and moisturizing dry or damaged hair. Studies indicate it increases blood flow to the scalp, potentially stimulating hair growth and reducing shedding. Skincare applications leverage its moisturizing and barrier-protective properties. The global castor oil market reached $7 billion, driven primarily by demand from China and India, where traditional use remains strong.

Modern aromatherapy and natural medicine continue exploring castor oil’s therapeutic applications. Research investigates its potential for treating inflammatory conditions like arthritis and digestive issues. While the FDA approves castor oil primarily as a natural laxative, ongoing studies examine its broader medicinal properties.

Red Ochre: Earth’s Original Blush

Red ochre represents humanity’s oldest cosmetic, with archaeological evidence from South African caves dating back 100,000 to 125,000 years. This naturally occurring iron oxide pigment ranges from yellow to deep red, depending on its hematite content and preparation method.

Ancient Egyptians mixed red ochre with fat or gum resin to create rouge for cheeks and lips. They also combined it with kohl and sycamore juice to produce ointments for treating scars and burns. The red color held deep symbolic meaning: it represented vitality, fertility, strength, and protection in Egyptian culture. Cleopatra’s famous red lipstick contained flowers, red ochre, fish scales, crushed ants, carmine, and beeswax.

Greek and Roman societies adopted red ochre for cosmetic use. Roman women favored it for lip and cheek color, though their literature often associated heavy makeup use with prostitutes rather than respectable women. Despite social stigma, the practical benefits and vibrant color kept ochre popular across social classes.

Indigenous communities worldwide developed ochre-based cosmetics independently. The Himba women of Namibia apply otjize—a mixture of butterfat and red ochre—to their skin and hair, creating a distinctive reddish appearance. This practice signifies fertility and vitality while protecting skin from sun and maintaining cleanliness in water-scarce environments. Australian Aboriginal peoples traditionally used wilgi (ochre mixed with animal fat) as a protective skin coating with antibacterial properties, confirmed by recent scientific studies.

Modern cosmetics industry draws continuous inspiration from red ochre traditions. Mineral makeup brands promote iron oxide pigments as natural, safe alternatives to synthetic dyes. Earthy tones inspired by ochre dominate contemporary makeup palettes—from foundations and blushes to eyeshadows and lipsticks. These products reflect growing consumer preference for natural ingredients and sustainable beauty practices.

The shift toward clean beauty has renewed interest in mineral-based cosmetics. Brands emphasize that iron oxides used in modern formulations offer the same non-toxic benefits ancient peoples valued while providing broader shade ranges serving diverse skin tones. Red ochre’s journey from cave paintings to contemporary makeup counters demonstrates enduring appeal of naturally derived cosmetics.

Frankincense and Myrrh: Royal Resins

Frankincense and myrrh, extracted from Boswellia and Commiphora tree resins respectively, have been coveted for over 5,000 years. Both originated in the Arabian Peninsula and Horn of Africa, becoming so valuable that ancient authorities strip-searched laborers processing them to prevent theft. Trade routes carrying these resins shaped political and economic relationships across ancient civilizations.

Ancient Egyptians used frankincense and myrrh extensively. They burned frankincense as temple incense and incorporated both resins into mummification processes. Egyptian women ground charred frankincense into kohl eyeliner—Pharaoh Hatshepsut famously did so with frankincense obtained during her expedition to the Land of Punt around 1450 BC. Myrrh served in embalming, cosmetics, and medicines.

Greek and Roman societies burned these resins during religious ceremonies and funeral rites. Persian medicine used frankincense to treat gastritis and stomach ulcers. Ayurvedic practitioners employed both resins for skin conditions ranging from psoriasis to eczema, as well as for digestive issues and inflammation. The Ebers Papyrus recommended both for treating wounds, establishing their medicinal reputation that persisted through medieval times.

Beyond medicine, frankincense and myrrh featured prominently in cosmetics and perfumes. Myrrh oil was applied to minimize wrinkles and enhance skin appearance in ancient Egypt. Its long-lasting scent made it valuable for perfumes throughout antiquity. The resins’ antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties explained their effectiveness in various applications.

Today, frankincense and myrrh remain significant in wellness and beauty industries. Their essential oils are incorporated into modern perfumes, cosmetics, aromatherapy products, and medicines. The global frankincense industry alone generates $7 billion annually, with China representing the largest market.

Contemporary research validates many ancient uses. Studies confirm frankincense’s anti-inflammatory properties and potential benefits for conditions like inflammatory bowel disease and asthma. Research suggests myrrh supports oral health and wound healing. When combined, the two resins demonstrate enhanced therapeutic effects, particularly for pain relief and antibacterial action.

Skincare brands incorporate frankincense and myrrh for their anti-aging properties and ability to promote healthy, youthful skin. Aromatherapy practices use their scents for stress relief, focus enhancement, and respiratory support. Traditional Chinese Medicine continues prescribing formulas containing these resins for pain related to trauma, arthritis, and menstrual disorders.

The Science Behind Ancient Wisdom

Modern research increasingly validates ancient cosmetic practices. Studies on kohl reveal that ancient Egyptians possessed sophisticated understanding of chemistry, deliberately synthesizing lead compounds with medicinal properties rather than using naturally occurring minerals alone. This challenges assumptions about ancient peoples’ scientific knowledge.

Research on henna confirms its antimicrobial and conditioning properties. The lawsone molecule in henna binds to keratin in hair, skin, and nails, explaining its effectiveness as both dye and treatment. Studies demonstrate henna’s ability to strengthen hair while adding color without the harsh chemicals found in synthetic dyes.

Castor oil’s ricinoleic acid has been extensively studied. Research confirms its anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects. A 2016 study verified its effectiveness for hair growth stimulation, supporting traditional claims. The oil’s unique molecular structure allows it to penetrate deeper into skin and hair than most other oils.

The photo-protective properties of red ochre were confirmed through recent experiments by international research teams. Iron oxides in ochre absorb and scatter ultraviolet radiation, providing measurable sun protection. This validates indigenous peoples’ use of ochre-based skin coatings in harsh climates.

Frankincense research has identified compounds that may inhibit cancer cell growth and reduce inflammation. Clinical trials reported reduced cerebral swelling in brain cancer patients treated with frankincense. Studies on myrrh demonstrate significant antibacterial and antifungal properties, explaining its historical use in wound treatment and mummification.

Why Ancient Cosmetics Endure

Several factors explain these products’ millennial longevity. First, they work—their effectiveness stems from active ingredients now understood and validated by modern science. Natural compounds like ricinoleic acid, lawsone, and iron oxides provide genuine benefits without synthetic alternatives’ potential drawbacks.

Second, these cosmetics connect users to cultural heritage and tradition. Applying kohl, henna, or ochre links modern practitioners to ancestors spanning thousands of years. This cultural continuity holds particular significance in diaspora communities maintaining traditional practices.

Third, growing consumer preference for natural, sustainable beauty products favors these ancient formulations. As clean beauty movements gain momentum, ingredients used safely for millennia appear more attractive than recently developed synthetic chemicals with unknown long-term effects.

Fourth, these products often serve multiple purposes—cosmetic, medicinal, spiritual, and protective. This multifunctionality aligns with contemporary holistic wellness approaches valuing products that benefit body, mind, and spirit simultaneously.

Finally, globalization has spread these traditions beyond their origins. Henna art at Western weddings, kohl pencils in mainstream cosmetics, and frankincense in luxury skincare demonstrate how ancient practices adapt to new contexts while retaining core benefits and meanings.

Modern Formulations and Safety

While ancient cosmetics’ core ingredients remain popular, modern formulations prioritize safety. Traditional kohl often contained lead at dangerous levels; contemporary versions use antimony or iron oxides meeting strict safety standards. Manufacturers test products for heavy metals and contaminants, ensuring they provide aesthetic benefits without health risks.

Henna products sometimes contain additives like para-phenylenediamine (PPD) to darken color or speed setting. Pure henna, however, remains safe for most users. Consumers should verify products contain only Lawsonia inermis and natural additives.

Castor oil production now includes refinement processes removing ricin, the toxic protein present in raw castor beans. Cold-pressed, hexane-free oils from organic sources offer maximum benefits with minimal processing.

Frankincense and myrrh essential oils are concentrated and should be diluted with carrier oils before skin application. Pregnant or nursing women should consult healthcare providers before use, as should young children.

Regulatory bodies worldwide, including the FDA and EU cosmetics regulators, maintain standards ensuring commercial products containing these ingredients meet safety requirements while preserving their traditional benefits.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is kohl safe to use today?

Modern kohl formulated with antimony or iron oxide instead of lead is safe when produced by reputable manufacturers who test for heavy metal content. Traditional kohl containing lead should be avoided, as prolonged exposure can cause serious health issues. Check product labels and choose brands complying with cosmetic safety regulations.

Can henna damage hair?

Pure henna conditions and strengthens hair without damage. However, products labeled “black henna” often contain PPD, which can cause allergic reactions and hair damage. Always perform patch tests before full application, and choose pure henna products without chemical additives for safest results.

Why was castor oil used in ancient Egypt?

Ancient Egyptians valued castor oil for multiple purposes: protecting eyes from desert conditions, moisturizing skin in arid climate, conditioning hair, and as slow-burning lamp fuel. They recognized its therapeutic properties thousands of years before modern science explained the chemistry behind its effectiveness.

Do frankincense and myrrh have proven health benefits?

Yes, contemporary research validates several traditional uses. Studies confirm frankincense’s anti-inflammatory properties and potential benefits for inflammatory bowel disease and respiratory conditions. Myrrh demonstrates antibacterial effects supporting oral health and wound healing. However, more research is needed to fully understand all claimed benefits.

Key Takeaways

Kohl, henna, castor oil, red ochre, and frankincense/myrrh have been used continuously for thousands of years
Modern science validates many benefits ancient civilizations recognized intuitively
Contemporary formulations maintain traditional effectiveness while meeting modern safety standards
Growing interest in natural beauty products has renewed appreciation for these ancient cosmetics
Cultural significance and multifunctional benefits contribute to their enduring popularity

Sources

Lemos et al. (2024). “Bronze age supply chains between ancient Egypt and Nubia revealed by lead isotope analysis of kohl samples.” Scientific Reports, 14(1).
World History Encyclopedia (2019). “Cosmetics in the Ancient World.”
Nature (2022). “Recipes of Ancient Egyptian kohls more diverse than previously thought.” Scientific Reports.
University of Missouri Extension. “Frankincense and myrrh: Ancient scents of the season.”
Wikipedia. “History of cosmetics” (updated 2025).
Qhemet Biologics (2024). “The History & Benefits of Castor Oil.”
Marie Claire Nigeria (2024). “Africa’s timeless beauty traditions: Shaping the modern makeup world.”