Base Makeup

I've been doing base makeup for about eight years. I've switched between dozens of foundations, tried various application techniques, and made enough mistakes to fill a book. This article is the routine I've figured out on my own.

I live in the north, where winters are dry and summers are oily. My methods may not work for everyone.

8 Years of Experience

Wait Time Between Skincare and Base Makeup

Many people apply primer immediately after skincare. Foundation pilling, patchiness, and cakiness all start from this step.

Skincare products need time to absorb. I usually wait 5 to 8 minutes. You can wait less in summer. In winter, if you use a thick moisturizer, you need to wait longer, sometimes over 10 minutes.

How to tell: Press the back of your hand to your face. If it's not sticky, you can move to the next step.

Primer

Primers fall into several categories:

Oil-Control Type

Contains silicone, matte texture

Hydrating Type

Contains hyaluronic acid or squalane

Color-Correcting Type

Green corrects redness, purple brightens sallow skin

Pore-Filling Type

Contains silicone, thick texture

I have combination-oily skin. I use oil-control primer on my T-zone and hydrating primer on my cheeks. Using the same primer all over is why many people's base makeup doesn't sit well.

Use about a soybean-sized amount for each area. Too much will cause pilling.

Foundation Application

Tools affect the finish.

Beauty Sponge

Natural finish, lower coverage, takes longer. Must be dampened and squeezed out before use. A dry beauty sponge absorbs foundation.

Natural Sheer Dampen First

Foundation Brush

Medium coverage, risk of brush strokes, requires technique.

Medium Coverage Technique Needed

Fingers

Strong coverage, tends to be heavy, good for spot application.

High Coverage Spot Treat

I use a beauty sponge daily. When I'm in a hurry, I use a brush. When I need more coverage, I spread it with my fingers first, then pat it even with a beauty sponge.

Application Technique

Apply from the center of the face outward. Forehead, nose, cheeks, chin. Blend the edges clean. The hairline and jawline are problem areas—many people have visible foundation lines in these spots.

Use one to one and a half pumps of foundation. Less is more. You can add more if needed, but too much is hard to fix.

Concealer

Concealer can go before or after foundation.

Before Foundation

Stronger coverage
Easily displaced by foundation
Requires setting before applying foundation
More steps

After Foundation

More common
Foundation covers some imperfections first, then you spot-treat
Uses less product
Lighter finish

Color Correction

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Dark Circles

Use orange-toned concealer to neutralize the blue, then cover with skin-toned concealer

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Acne Marks

Directly dab concealer half a shade darker than your skin tone

Don't spread concealer by rubbing. Press and pat it in with your finger or beauty sponge. Rubbing moves the product away.

Use a hydrating formula under the eyes. Dry concealer will settle into fine lines.

Setting

Oily skin must set. Dry skin can skip setting or only set the T-zone.

Loose Powder

Controls oil well and gives a matte finish. Press it on with a puff—don't sweep it with a brush. Brushing will lift the foundation.

Best for: Oily skin, Summer

Setting Spray

Maintains a dewy look, has weaker oil control, and suits dry skin or fall/winter.

Best for: Dry skin, Fall/Winter

In summer, I use loose powder on my T-zone and setting spray on my cheeks. In winter, I spray my whole face.

Use loose powder sparingly. After dipping, tap off the excess on the back of your hand before applying. Too much powder under the eyes and around the nasolabial folds will settle into lines.

Foundation Shade

Test on jawline
The back of your hand and your face are very different colors

Check in natural light
Store lighting can distort colors

Buy samples first
Test at a counter before buying

The wrong shade makes the whole look dirty—no matter how expensive the product is.

Mistakes I've Made

I used skincare with silicone, then used a silicone-based primer. Layering them caused pilling. Check the ingredient list.

I didn't fully dampen my beauty sponge. The dry spots absorbed foundation.

In summer, I didn't wait for skincare to absorb before applying makeup. Half an hour after leaving the house, my makeup started breaking down.

I applied too much foundation at once and tried to pat it thinner with a beauty sponge. The more I patted, the worse it looked.

I didn't set my concealer. Two hours later, my dark circles were fully visible again.

In winter, I used loose powder all over my face. By afternoon, my skin was so dry it was flaking.

These are lessons learned through trial and error over eight years.
Your skin is unique—take what works and leave what doesn't.